Corded bonnets were one of the few items of dress that didn't drastically change throughout the 19th century. While curtains did shorten as the decades progressed, the general style was frequently utilized whenever sun protection was required.
A brief aside before we begin. I have done my best to determine certain aspects of color, construction etc. from the photos provided by each source, but there is a limited amount you can glean without examining something in person. If I was particularly uncertain about a specific piece of information I placed a (?) beside it. If there is anything in the post that you think I stated incorrectly, please let me know and I will take you opinion into consideration.
If you are aware of any other examples of mid-19th century corded bonnets online, or have an original you wish to share, I would love to add it to this list. Thank you!
A brief aside before we begin. I have done my best to determine certain aspects of color, construction etc. from the photos provided by each source, but there is a limited amount you can glean without examining something in person. If I was particularly uncertain about a specific piece of information I placed a (?) beside it. If there is anything in the post that you think I stated incorrectly, please let me know and I will take you opinion into consideration.
If you are aware of any other examples of mid-19th century corded bonnets online, or have an original you wish to share, I would love to add it to this list. Thank you!
Retrieved from: The MET
Dated: mid-19th century
Fabric content: cotton
Color: white
Pattern: plain
Brim corner: square
Curtain corner: square
Cording: three rows of vertical 4x cording, plus one row 4x on horizontal edge
Brim Attachment: plainly gathered
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Retrieved from: Augusta Auctions
Dated: mid-19th century
Fabric content: linen
Color: blue, white
Pattern: gingham
Brim corner: curved
Curtain corner: square
Cording: four rows of 5x cording on the brim, first row extends along horizontal edged. Three rows of 5x cording on the crown. Piping where crown attaches to brim.
Curtain Attachment: gathered on cord, overlapping two rows of cording on brim edge
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Details: Self fabric ties at front, 9" curtain, hand sewn
Details: Self fabric ties at front, 9" curtain, hand sewn
Dated: not dated
Fabric content: not specified
Color: white
Pattern: check
Brim corner: curved
Curtain corner: square
Cording: two rows of 3x cording, two rows of 2x cording. The first row extends along the horizontal edge. Piping where crown attaches to brim.
Curtain Attachment: gathered on cord
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Dated: ca. 1840
Fabric content: cotton
Color: discolored white or natural
Pattern: plain
Brim corner: curved
Curtain corner: square
Cording: one row of vertical 4x cording that extends along the horizontal edge. Two rows of vertical 2x cording. Two rows of horizontal 3x cording between the last row of vertical cording and where the crown attaches. Piping where the crown attaches to brim.
Curtain Attachment: plainly gathered, overlapping one cording channel.
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Details: self fabric ties at front.
Details: self fabric ties at front.
Retrieved from: aawt.com (page not longer available)
Dated: ca. 1840
Fabric content: cotton
Color: blue, white
Pattern: check
Brim corner: straight into curtain
Curtain corner: square
Cording: two rows of vertical 3x cording (?)
Curtain Attachment: gathered on exposed fold
Crown Attachment: attached flat
Details: self fabric ties at front.
Details: self fabric ties at front.
Retrieved from: Augusta Auctions
Dated: mid-late 19th century
Fabric content: cotton
Color: white
Pattern: plain
Brim corner: straight into curtain
Curtain corner: curved
Cording: one row of vertical x6 cording and seven rows of x3
Curtain Attachment: attached flat to brim, drawstring in casing where curtain attaches to crown
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Details: Self fabric ties at front, 6.5" curtain, machine sewn
Details: Self fabric ties at front, 6.5" curtain, machine sewn
Dated: ca. 1840
Fabric content: cotton
Color: red, yellow, white, black
Pattern: plaid
Brim corner: straight into curtain
Curtain corner: square
Cording: one row of vertical x11 cording and one row of x3. Piping where crown attaches to brim.
Curtain Attachment: plainly gathered, interior allowance bound with self-fabric
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Details: self fabric ties at front.
Details: self fabric ties at front.
Dated: ca. 1860
Fabric content: not specified
Color: yellow and brown (?)
Pattern: floral or geometric (?)
Brim corner: square
Curtain corner: square
Cording: corded or quilted in vertical lines across entire brim. One horizontal row at brim edge.
Curtain Attachment: attached to brim by gathering on cord (?), drawstring in casing where curtain attaches to crown
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Details: bonnet for a child
Details: bonnet for a child
Dated: ca. 1835-1850
Fabric content: linen
Color: white
Pattern: plain
Brim corner: curved
Curtain corner: square
Cording: one row of vertical 5x cording that extends along horizontal edge. One row of vertical 2x cording that extends parallel to horizontal edge. Two rows of vertical 4x cording, one row of 3x, and one row of 2x. Three (?) rows of vertical 4x cording in crown.
Curtain Attachment: gathered on cord (?)
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Details: self-fabric ties at front
Details: self-fabric ties at front
Dated: civil war era
Fabric content: cotton
Color: white
Pattern: window-pain check
Brim corner: square
Curtain corner: square
Cording: one row of vertical 20x cording, one of 10x, two of 3x cording, one row of 3x, and one row of 2x.
Curtain Attachment: attached to brim by gathering on cord, drawstring in casing where curtain attaches to crown
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered
Details: self-fabric ties at front (1") and back (1.5"), curtain 11.5 inches long, 0.75" hem.
Details: self-fabric ties at front (1") and back (1.5"), curtain 11.5 inches long, 0.75" hem.
Dated: 1857
Brim corner: curved
Curtain corner: curved
Cording: per instruction some number of vertical 3x or 4x cording, per image three rows of 3x cording.
Curtain Attachment: not specified, in image it appears to be very lightly gathered or attached flat
Crown Attachment: "filled" or fulled at brim edge (slightly gathered to give 3D shape), gathered "a little" at neck edge with seam allowance bound
Details: Per the instructions there are self fabric ties at the back and ties made of "small tape" at the front. The image seems to show the same material for both. The accompanying image also shows what appears to be a pinked, self-fabric ruffle along front brim edge.
Details: Per the instructions there are self fabric ties at the back and ties made of "small tape" at the front. The image seems to show the same material for both. The accompanying image also shows what appears to be a pinked, self-fabric ruffle along front brim edge.
Retrieved from: luminous-lint.com
Dated: 1857
Fabric content: unable to determine
Color: white (?)
Pattern: plain (?)
Brim corner: curved
Curtain corner: square
Cording: not able to determine
Curtain Attachment: not able to determine
Crown Attachment: not able to determine
Details: curtain about shoulder length. Photo of "Jenny," taken by Henry Peach Robinson in 1857
Details: curtain about shoulder length. Photo of "Jenny," taken by Henry Peach Robinson in 1857
Retrieved from: pinterest, unknown source
Dated: ca 1850
Fabric content: unable to determine
Color: white (?)
Pattern: plain (?)
Brim corner: curved
Curtain corner: curved
Cording: row of vertical 4(?)x cording that extends along the horizontal edge. At least one more row of multiple cording.
Curtain Attachment: plainly gathered(?)
Crown Attachment: plainly gathered(?)
Details: curtain about upper-arm length
Details: curtain about upper-arm length
Summary of Applicable Bonnets
Fabric content: cotton (6/8, 75%), linen (2/8, 25%). Likely linen was used along side cotton in 30s-50s, with cotton becoming ubiquitous by the 60s.
Color: white (8/12, 67%), blue, green, red, etc. (4/12, 33%)
Pattern: plain (6/12, 50%), check/plaid/gingham (5/12, 42%), other print (1/12, 8%)
Brim corner: curved (7/13, 54%), straight (4/13, 31%), square (2/13, 15%)
Curtain corner: square (10/13, 77%), curved (3/13, 23%)
Total number of rows of vertical cording in brim: four (3/10, 30%), three (3/10, 30%), two (2/10, 20%), six (1/10, 10%), eight (1/10, 10%)
Amount of cords in each row: ranges between 2-20, most common seems to be 2-6, with more per row near the brim front
Cording along horizontal brim edge: yes (7/12, 58%), no (5/12, 42%)
Curtain attachment: plainly gathered (3/10, 30%), gathered on cord (3/10, 30%), drawstring at back (3/10, 30%), gathered on exposed fold (1/10, 10%)
Crown attachment: all appear to be plainly gathered
Details: all visible ties are made from self-fabric. Measured curtains range from 6.5-11.5", shoulder to upper arm length.
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