A Closer Look: "The Old Sewing Machine" (1863)

Today we will be taking a closer look at a steel engraving published in  Godey's January 1863 titled “The Old Sewing Machine” available on archive.org. I was once told that engravings like this one were the Polaroids of the 19th century, showing the everyday moments that weren't captured in photographs. I can't say whether this is true, or if these images are as romanticized as the often staged portraits of the poor and working class, but it does give us one more source for exploring day-to-day life.

In  this image a young woman is sewing what appears to be a men's shirt by candlelight.  Her poverty is immediately evident, as the setting is anything but opulent. The rough lumber of the sloping ceiling and chipping plaster on the walls demonstrate that this is not a room made for comfort, and she is dressed in a very plain fashion. Most likely, she is a servant, tucked away in an attic bedroom.

She sits on a small wooden stool in front of her bed: a folding, tressel. Described in An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy (1855) as "one of the cheapest made [bedsteads]... [it] has the great convenience of being easily put aside... consisting merely of two frames connected by the sacking... there is no better bedstead for men servants or young people... they may be had complete for less than £1." Available on archive.org. On the bed is a mattress covered with a striped tick, and likely stuffed with a cheaper filling such as straw.

On the mattress sits a wide, shallow basket overflowing with fabric and two spools of white thread. Further back a candlestick with large, round base, finger loop handle and thumb tab sits on what appears to be an un-decorated bandbox with looped handles. On the floor are a simple, unmatched pitcher and basin.

The woman in questions wears a plain, solid colored dress, presumably of a hard wearing material like wool. There are several patches visible on the skirt. From beneath her sleeves poke white cuffs, and around her neck hangs a checked kerchief. Further back, hanging on the wall are what appear to be a slatted sunbonnet and a cloak or shawl. Her hair is pulled back in a low bun with the sides swooping over her ears.  She squints at her sewing in the low light, while hanging her head in apparent exhaustion.

In March of the same year, in the section "Godey's Arm-Chair" the writer states ""The New Sewing-Machine" is also published in the number, a companion plate to the "Old Sewing-Machine" in January number. Our subscribers may make the comparison. The old sewing-machine we rather prefer in some respects, but the new one is cheap at the price."
Both plates appear to be signed "Lauderbach," and were possibly made by James W. Lauderbach of Philadelphia.