Sunday, September 2, 2018

Natural Dyes in the Mid-19th Century

Natural dyes generally come in two forms, organic dyes and mineral pigments. Organic dyes, with the exception of indigo, would not readily stick to cotton fabric without the helps of mordants for organic dyes (mineral salts such as copper, aluminum, tin and iron) and protein-binding for mineral dyes (using albumin from eggs for gluten from wheat) These mordants helped the dyes last through washing and reduced fading in light, and also functioned as a way of tinting the material to slightly different hues. None the less, cotton remained the fabric most prone to fading, which is why wool and silk are found more often in solid colors, while cotton was limited to patterns that could hide any irregularities in color.

I would highly suggest browsing the blog Civil War Quilts, which has several posts showing examples of each dye in antique and reproduction fabrics. I have linked her posts under each dye that she has covered.

Mineral Dyes

Prussian Blue


"Prussian blue was very popular in America in the 1850s, and was first used in the United States in the early 1830s. Prussian blue was commonly used in ombre prints, prints which featured a gradation from light to dark."-quiltindex.org

IndiaMART

Manganese Bronze

"Manganese dyes were responsible for a deep, rich brown and was often used in floral patterns. Manganese dyes have been used in quilts since prior to 1820, however, they were often fugitive. Manganese dyes are often responsible for serious damage to the cloth and other adjacent dyes." -quiltindex.org

Kremer Pigmints

Chrome Yellow


Chrome yellow is composed of lead(II) chromate (PbCrO4).

"[Chrome] yellows were popular in the period from about 1860 to 1880 and were produced, often in the home, from highly toxic chemical dye powders. Chrome yellows are brighter than butterscotch, another popular yellow from the same period." -quiltindex.org

Chrome Orange or Cheddar

Civil War Quilts blog post on chrome orange.

"Chrome orange is a range of orange pigments, which consists of lead(II) chromate and lead(II) oxide." -wikipedia


Best Guesses

Manganese Brown

 Le Bon Ton, April 1859. LAPL Visual Collections.

 Magasin des Demoiselles, January 1859. LAPL Visual Collections. 

Chrome Yellow


Le Moniteur de la Mode, 1855. University of Dusseldorf. 

Moniteur de la Mode, September 1862. LAPL Visual Collections.

Chrome Orange/Cheddar

1865-1875 Silk Visiting Dress. Met Museum.
1865-67 House of Worth Orange Silk Evening Dress with White Embroidery. (Kent State Museum)

Prussian Blue

Le Follet, May 1862. LAPL Visual Collections.
Allgemeine Moden-Zeitung, 1862. University of Dusseldorf.
Le Follet, May 1861. LAPL Visual Collections.


Sources:
http://www.quiltindex.org/~quilti/wiki/index.php/Fabric_Dating_References
https://web.archive.org/web/20150316215218/http://info.fabrics.net/madder-minerals-and-indigo-cotton-dyeing-in-the-18th-19th-century/

Griddle Cakes of Unbolted Wheat (1847)

Today's recipe come from "Miss Beecher's domestic receipt book : designed as a supplement to her treatise on domestic economy." Originally published in 1847, the 3rd edition was in print until 1860. 

Here is a transcription of the recipe which can be found on page 95 of the text.

Griddle Cakes of Unbolted Wheat
A quart of unbolted wheat, and a teaspoonful of salt. Wet it up with water or sweet milk, in which is disolved a teaspoonful of saleratus. Add three spoonfuls of molasses. Some raise this with yeast, and leave out the saleratus. Sour milk and saleratus are not as good for unbolted as for fine flour.
These are better and more healthful cakes than buckwheat.

Modern interpretation:

4 cups of whole wheat flour
1 tsp salt
4 cups water or milk*
1 tsp of baking soda
3 tbsp of molasses

*sweet milk is regular milk, sour milk is buttermilk

I prepared this recipe by cutting it in four (so 1 cup of flour, 1/4 tsp of salt, etc.) This makes 5 or 6 medium pancakes. I have used water instead of milk every time I have made it, just for convenience. In the past, I have substituted brown sugar for molasses such that I can have all the dry ingredients pre-mixed and just add water.

I have not included instructions for making it up with yeast, as I have never tried it. Let me know if you do!

This flour to water ratio makes a thinner pancake, which seems to have been the norm at the time. It is half way between modern fluffy pancakes and a crepe. But, as the actual amount of liquid is not specified, feel free to experiment and find what works for you!

Top with molasses, maple syrup, or whatever you prefer! This is a wonderfully simple recipe that is tasty and easy to prepare. Definitely a win in my book!